Excellent

"Excellent" condition means that the vehicle looks great, is in excellent mechanical condition and needs no reconditioning. It should pass a smog inspection. The engine compartment should be clean, with no fluid leaks. The paint is glossy and the body and interior are free of any wear or visible defects. There is no rust. The tires are the proper size and match and are new or nearly new. A clean title history is assumed. This is an exceptional vehicle.

Good

"Good" condition means that the vehicle is free of any major defects. The paint, body and interior have only minor (if any) blemishes, and there are no major mechanical problems. In states where rust is a problem, this should be very minimal, and a deduction should be made to correct it. The tires match and have substantial tread wear left. A clean title history is assumed. A "good" vehicle will need some reconditioning to be sold at retail; however major reconditioning should be deducted from the value. Most recent model cars owned by consumers fall into this category.

Fair

"Fair" condition means that the vehicle probably has some mechanical or cosmetic defects, but is still in safe running condition. The paint, body and/or interior need work to be performed by a professional in order to be sold. The tires need to be replaced. There may be some repairable rust damage. The value of cars in this category may vary widely. A clean title history is assumed. Even after significant reconditioning this vehicle may not qualify for the Blue Book Suggested Retail value.

Poor

“Poor” condition means that the vehicle has severe mechanical and/or cosmetic defects and may be in questionable running condition. The vehicle may have problems that cannot be readily fixed such as a damaged frame or a rusted-through body. A vehicle with a branded title (salvage, flood, etc.) or unsubstantiated mileage should be considered “poor” because of potential problems and should be independently appraised to determine its value.

Headliner

The lining above your head on the underside of the roof. Headliners are usually not a problem. However, sometimes they are faded or have stains or tears. They can be replaced, but this requires some time and expense.

Upholstery

Should be clean and not faded or ripped. Leather is a special case. It usually has some added value if it is in good shape. However, if it needs repair or replacing it is much more expensive than cloth or vinyl to do so.

Carpets

Older cars usually have some carpet wear. If so, it must be replaced for the vehicle to be worth top dollar. Any stains will reduce the value.

Dashboard

The dashboard is usually not a problem. However, sometimes they have been dented or scratched. More often they could have sun damage in the form of fading or cracking leather or vinyl trim.

Metal & Paint

Metal and paint are very subjective items. You must keep in mind that while some minor dents and scratches are normal wear & tear as the car gets older, the new buyer expects it to be perfect. When you drive the same car for several years, these imperfections sometimes start to go unnoticed. Door chips and sand damage are sometimes subtle and should be looked at carefully.

A warning about Metal & Paint reconditioning: If you have paid for reconditioning that was not done properly (a "fixed" dent that appears wavy, etc.) the person appraising the car may deduct for reconditioning anyway.

Glass

The side windows are usually not a problem as long as they operate properly. You should pay special attention to the windshield and rear window. The rear window sometimes gets sun damage in the form of checking, cracking or discoloration. The windshield is the most important glass, as it is the most expensive and is most subject to damage. Besides the obvious cracking, checking and discoloration, sand damage is the most commonly overlooked problem by the layman. Sand damage can range from slight to the point where it impairs vision. In either case, the windshield will usually need to be replaced.

Rust

Check around the window mouldings, wheel wells, under the doors, door hinge area and taillight mouldings. Look in the trunk area under the mat. Look for rust on the hubcaps or on the bumper. Look underneath the vehicle. Is there rust on the underbody? Look under the hood. Is the engine compartment pitted or corroded?

Mechanical

The exact nature of a mechanical problem is difficult for a layman to diagnose. Even the experts can't always be sure of the nature or the magnitude of the problem without at least partially disabling the part. If you are in doubt, have a reputable repair shop give you an opinion of the problem and an estimated cost of repair.

Tires

Tires must be the proper size and match for the vehicle. They should be near new to avoid a deduction when the car is appraised. The depth of the new tire tread for the average passenger car is about 3/8" (this can go to nearly 1/2"). All-terrain & off-road tires found on trucks and sport utility vehicles should have at least 1/4" of tread. Any less than 1/4" will likely result in a deduction as the dealer will probably want to replace the tires before offering the vehicle for resale.